“Only with maturity can we really put vintages into focus and place them within the context of other growing seasons.”
Yesterday saw the publication of Neal Martin’s article “Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten”, a critical reevaluation of one of Bordeaux’s most applauded vintages ten years on. We previously examined the 2010s’ pricing and performance as well as the biggest risers and fallers from the vintage in light of the market landscape.
In evaluating investment and profit gains, Martin draws on our analysis of the vintage which “showed an almost even split between châteaux that have increased in value from their prix de sortis in 2011 and those that have fallen”.
When it comes to quality, Martin describes Bordeaux 2010 as “a fascinating and highly revered vintage, albeit one not beyond criticism”. He suggests that “if hedonism floats your boat” you may still appreciate its virtues “but in terms of what you prefer gulping down your throat, 2009 will be your bag”. Martin highlights wines that confer the status of a great year for Bordeaux but questions whether the vintage “is the benchmark for years to come”.
He comments that many of the 2010s are now “on the cusp of their respective drinking windows – ajar but not wide open”.
The table below shows his top-scoring wines, as well as their current Market Price compared to price on release. Martin re-tasted the wines at a BI Wines & Spirits open tasting and a Farr Vintners blind tasting, with some achieving different scores.
Latour is the only 100-point wine, which Martin describes as “The King”. The 2010 is “simply a faultless Latour that ranks among its greatest achievements”. Two wines under the £1k mark also feature in the table below; both Grand Puy Lacoste and Leoville Poyferre boast 97 points.
* When two scores are given the wines achieved different scores at the BI Wines & Spirits and Farr Vintners tastings.
For an in-depth look into the Bordeaux market and the current En Primeur situation, see our latest extended report, Bordeaux 2019: the value of time.